“ Identity (1) ”.    2017.   Silver.   Photography: Shannon Tofts. ©

 “ Identity (1) ”.    2017.   Silver.   Photography: Shannon Tofts. ©

 “ Identity (6) ”.   2017.   2.5*2*3.2cm.  9ct Gold.  Photography: Shannon Tofts. ©

 “ Identity (6) ”.   2017.   2.5*2*3.2cm.  9ct Gold.  Photography: Shannon Tofts. ©

“ Identity (1) ”.     2017 .     Silver . Photography: Shannon Tofts. ©

“ Identity (1) ”.     2017 .     Silver . Photography: Shannon Tofts. ©


This ‘Identity’ originated from a self-initiated project titled ‘Air Chain’ which was developed from research into ancient Chinese coins displayed in the British Museum. ‘Air Chain’ began from a discussion on the value of money in ancient times, which was then reflected upon in a contemporary manner and concept. The string action in the chains is what interested me as it clearly demonstrates the transformation of value from an objective fact to a subjective action. In my jewellery, waving metal wire is treated as a central line and it is used to string the “air”, final perspective demonstrates a substantial decline in value, which the modern Chinese population had lost in their affluent life, the air is nothing but everything. 

After the Air Chain project, ‘Identity’ further traced this topic back to ancient couture. Inspired by the representative symbol of the 16-17th century’s costume for imperial households and nobility in the Elizaberth I period  and Ancient China "Ming" & "Qing" dynasty : repetitive and complexly decorative waving lines.Even though these patterns might be mistaken for being foppish, history of culture and politics show everlasting support for such aesthetic values. In the research, through disassembling and simplifying this symbol, I try to find the visional definition of “identity” in the perspective of the youth in 2017.

In the final work, there are over 8590 hand soldered joining points and 1826 handmade jump rings in the whole collection. Filigree technique was utilized for form shaping, traditional fabric material was replaced by flimsy precious metal wire. After soldering, flat filigree sheets are firstly formed by hand, hand made chains are linked to some of these pieces after that. Through this process, 2D elements have been transformed to 3D constructions in these two approaches, which demonstrate an interpretation for subtle details from the archaic “Identity”. 


Identity 2017.     Model : Daniela Groza. 2017